Friday, October 16, 2009


Here's something you can do


with the bits of crab you so carefully extract from the crabshells if you attend a crabfest such as we did in Maryland. Crab Cakes are a delicacy sometimes for sale in the better deli counters, and they are good, but these sound better. We have yet to try them, but Mark Bittman doesn't steer you wrong in his MINIMALIST columns. Shrimp as the glue makes sense:


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The Minimalist /The New York Times
Giving an Old Friend a New Lease on Life


By MARK BITTMAN
Published: September 11, 2009
I LEARNED how to make good crab cakes 20 years ago from Johnny Earles, a chef and friend in the Florida Panhandle. When I say “good,” I mean crab cakes made predominantly from crab, seasonings, a tiny bit of mayo as binder (you need something) and not much else. And for a long time I barely tinkered with the recipe. Why would I? Everyone loved it.

Recipe: Thai Style Crab Cakes (September 16, 2009)

Then it occurred to me that I could make a formidable crab cake in a style that mimics tod mun, the Thai fish cake that, when made right, packs astonishing flavor. The challenge was replacing the mayo; it seemed odd to include it in a Southeast Asian dish. And then I realized I could take the tod mun imitation one step further and use the time-honored technique of including puréed fish as a binder.
This worked perfectly. I use shrimp purée because the taste doesn’t conflict with that of the crab; scallops are another good option. Just stick a few in a small food processor and whiz for a few seconds, or chop and mash by hand.
Once I’d solved that issue, the rest was easy, choosing an assortment of Thai flavors, many of which, especially the chili, can be increased to taste.
You can serve these with lime wedges, as I do here, or make a Thai-style dipping sauce of nam pla or soy sauce, lime juice, a little sugar and a few chopped scallions. Or yield to heresy and spike a little mayonnaise with nam pla or soy sauce.
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For a musical reminder, sing along with Satchmo
and just substitute 'Crab Cake'
for 'Cheese Cake'